Prada Spring 2019 RTW and Eyewear to Go with It!
The gasp factor at Prada’s show back in September 2018 was the vastness of the new multipurpose performance space at the Fondazione Prada she has opened. Editors sat on inflatable Verner Panton stools and took it all in: the stadium seating at one end; the cavernous hall; then the fact that the floor was marked out with grids of geographical coordinates denoting the exact place in the world each one of us was occupying. “We wanted to introduce life to the Fondazione, because sometimes art is not enough,” said Prada.
Placing fashion on an equal footing with an art performance is a prerogative Miuccia Prada has always asserted. It puts people on the edge of their seats, straining to correctly perceive what this oracle of fashion will have to say about the state of the world. This time, her address seemed aimed directly to youth. There were cycling shorts and duchesse satin A-line tunics and baby doll dresses; plunging bodysuits with straps under the breasts; sheer black knee-highs implanted with Prada’s triangular logos; and iterations of her ’60s–’70s throwback print jersey ladylike coats, all of it topped off with puffy Alice bands. “I wanted to break the rules of the classic,” she said. “To discuss a wish of freedom and liberation and fantasy, and, on the other side, the extreme conservatism that is coming—the duality out there.”
Now that the Spring 2019 Collection is already amongst us, what better way to wear it than to match it with a special collection that takes its cue from the fashion show’s original theme. The SS 19 Prada Maquillage collection stay true to an extremely large wraparound silhouette that draws clean-cut lines framing the face. Acetate inserts give way to metal studs, and acetate profiles are reinterpreted as sleek, metal lines.
The new Prada Disguise collection counterpoises classic conservatism to creative experimentation, while geometric minimalism harmoniously collides with lively camouflage colours.
Lastly, the iconic Postcard collection makes a comeback, with a new edition combining large, feminine shapes with the essential design of the bold acetate profiles.
For sure, this was a collection which defied neat taglines. In Prada’s head there may have been a war against incipient fascism going on, but her collection still had plenty to wear, like the double-breasted jackets, the tie-dye circle skirts, and cashmere sweaters with neat white shirt collars. And you wouldn’t need to be a schoolgirl to get away with them.