The Equilibrium of Minimalism and Glamor
Minimalism in fashion is much more than a use of single color or a trend of simplicity. It is aesthetic that is tightly connected to the broader spectrum of social development and continuously reinvented and adapted to fit different eras. Minimalism was always the indicator of economic cycles and technological development. Looking back at the development of the 20th century, we can observe the minimalism underpinning almost every social development, even before the official start of the minimalist movement.
From women entering the workforce to winning the voting rights, the story of modern working woman also mirrors the rise and fall of minimalism. The beginning of the more complex lifestyle was accompanied by the simplified, masculine and more practical clothing (take for example Chanel) while the backlashes against feminism in the 1950s and 1980s returned the hyper-feminine look (think Dior with his New look) that was again overturned by avant-garde designers guided by reductivism.
And minimalism today? It became increasingly evident that the financial system is becoming unstable, crash was unavoidable and fashion buying habits ready to change again. While minimalism of the past was always connected to various social, political and cultural shifts, the movement of the 21st century is more impacted by the economics.
We have less money to spend on clothing and want to spend it on pieces that won’t be outdated already next season. Beside we are more concerned with ethical aspects of fashion, as well as environmental issues, such as use of natural resources, waste and pollution.
Minimalism became a responsible way of fashion consumption and aesthetic that pervades the current fashion consciousness. Edition KLFW highlight some of our favorite designers that exudes the minimalism blueprint while evolving it into something that is glamorous and powerful. A sign of the time that while women subscribe to the notion of reductivism, they also want to be glamorous and be seen wherever they go.
Below are some of our favorite designers that balances Minimalism while injecting glamour and style, proving that minimalism should not be confused with being boring!
Brandon Maxwell is a luxury women’s ready-to-wear label launched in New York in 2015. The brand was born out of the desire to make women feel beautiful, sophisticated and powerful, with timeless garments that are impeccably tailored. With a focus on craftsmanship, the entire collection is designed in New York City.
He went on to study photography at St. Edward’s University in Austin and began assisting stylist Deborah Afshani in 2009, followed by Edward Enninful, and then Nicola Formichetti in 2010. Maxwell established a styling career in 2012 acting as a fashion director to Lady Gaga and working on fashion campaigns and editorials for talented photographers such as Inez and Vinoodh, Mario Sorrenti and Mario Testino.
Dion Lee (born 2 October 1985) is an Australian fashion designer who established his eponymous brand at the age of 23. Lee debuted at Australian Fashion Week in 2009 after graduating from FDS (Fashion Design Studio) TAFE NSW the year prior. He was the first designer to stage a runway presentation at the Sydney Opera House in 2010.After a national collaboration with Australian retail chain Cue Clothing Company in 2011,
Lee announced a partnership in 2013 with the retailer who acquired an undisclosed shareholding of the business.
Anthony Vaccarello - Saint Laurent
Anthony Vaccarello was born in Brussels is 1982. The designer, whose parents are Sicilian, studied art and design at the city’s famous La Cambre university; the school’s alumni also counts Cédric Charlier, Olivier Theyskens and Cathy Pill. After university, he went on to win France’s prestigious Hyères prize with a collection inspired by politician and ex-pornstar La Cicciolina.
A then still relatively unknown Vaccarello subsequently worked under Karl Lagerfeld at Fendi (designing furs) and continued this upward trajectory by setting up his own label in 2011. His designs, and especially his dresses, were noted for their sexy cuts and sculpting silhouettes, so it’s no wonder that Donatella Versace came calling. The Italian doyenne of high glam fashion appointed Vaccarello Creative Director of her men’s and women’s sub-label, Versus in 2014.
Rushemy Botter and Lisi Herrebrugh - Nina Ricci
A French clothing designer, Nina Ricci lived from 1883 until 1970. Nina’s birth name was Maria Adélaide Nielli and she is originally from Turin but later settled in Florence with her family when she was five years old. In 1895, she moved to France and acquired Nina as her nickname.Nina Ricci died in 1970 at the age of 87 and eighteen years later her son died too. The company they found is now being run by Robert’s son-in-law, Gilles Fuchs. in 2018,
Nina Ricci Hired Two Award-Winning Menswear Designers as Its New Creative Directors Rushemy Botter and Lisi Herrebrugh.
Valentino S.p.A. is an Italian clothing company founded in 1960 by Valentino Garavani and part of Valentino Fashion Group, which in turn is owned by the State of Qatar through Mayhoola for Investments S.P.C. Since October 2008, the creative director is Pier Paolo Piccioli. Alessandra Facchinetti was Valentino's creative designer from 2007 to 2008.
Valentino is headquartered in Milan, while the creative direction is in Rome. Pierpaolo Piccioli’s way of life is unconventional, especially for a couturier. And that’s just how he likes it.
Valentino’s creative director continues to live in Nettuno, Italy, a beach town 44 miles south of Rome where he was born, where he met his wife, Simona, and where they are raising their three children. Piccioli’s choice seems to mirror his understated and affable manners.